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Sunday, February 24, 2013

San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, & Arequipa, Peru.

It is pretty freeing to find yourself alone on the moon!
I'm currently back in Peru after a long journey from San Pedro de Atacama which involved
the most uncomfortable overnight bus ride I've taken yet and an early morning border crossing. Funnily enough I arived in Arica, Chile at 6:30am, crossed the border, and took my bus from Tacna, Peru also at 6:30am. Time changes always have always been an interesting concept to me, especially when all they involve is an imaginary (yet ironically concrete) line. I've been in 3 different countries in 3 different days and have managed to go from 16,000 feet to 7,900ft to sea level back to 7,640ft all in those same 3 or 4 days. Was it really just 4 nights ago that I was sleeping in the Bolivian altiplano, where it was so cold I couldn't even sleep through the night and now I am here in Peru where it's hot enough to wear little more than flip flops and a dress during the day?

Pachamama offerings with volcanoes in background.
I wasn't trying to hurry my time in Chile, all 2 days and one night of it, but I was certainly ready to make it back to Peru as I was a bit underwhelmed by my time in San Pedro de Atacama (and my flight leaves from Lima in a week). It is a beautiful Chilean desert town indeed, and along with the Easter Islands and part of Chilean's Patagonia, is the most visited place in all of Chile. With reason. The nearby attractions are stunning- the Licancabur volcano in the background, some of the best star gazing to be found on the continent, geysers, hot springs, and lakes that are so salinated that you literally float when you are in them!

But I saw much of the same, if not better, during my time in Bolivia and another thing about Chile when you are travelling South America- it's expensive! My hostel, the food, and my flights were at least double what I paid in Peru if not triple what I paid in Bolivia. Also, the people running the hostel were some of the most unfriendly and unhelpful I have encountered in my travels. Oh, and my bathing suit was stolen. Could be way worse but still doesn't make you love a place, ya know? Some say Chile is like the US just with a Spanish speaking flair, I presume due to its modernity and amenities (might this also have to do with them having the strictest customs in South America?). San Pedro is also known as being particularly expensive, which doesn't help. Makes sense though when it's so full of tourists AND a desert that can't produce its own food. Some parts of San Pedro de Atacama haven't seen a single drop of rain in hundreds of years, making it known as the driest place on earth!

Is that why the water is so cold, to keep the showers so short?
Add to the high prices the hoards of Chileans hanging out there for their last hurrah before summer is over for them and it all felt a little bit too much like a 'scene' for me. Even though it was fun to watch- the girls walking around with shorts so short they barely covered their cheeks and hair so long it more or less covered their shorts, chilenos playing their music on the streets, the camaraderie amongst the debauchery. Amongst all this, though, I will admit that it was nice hanging out in a country with people who are actually from that country. Chileans and Argentines seem to travel more than the people of any other Latin American country I know. My personal belief is that the wealth disparities in many of the other Latin American countries are so great that most of the people hardly travel at all and the ones who do have enough money that they tend to go outside of Central or South America or hostelling (roughing it) just doesn't seem to be on their agenda. Just a musing.

With my lovely Chilean friends outside the San Pedro market.
I enjoyed immensely my last moments amongst the company of my Chilean friends from the Uyuni tour. They also expected a bit smaller, homelier of a town out of San Pedro without quite the intense crowds of tourist, but nonetheless we all reveled in our time together and I was pleased some yoga with them. I was also delighted to have the opportunity to squeeze in a bike ride to the nearby Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon). It was spectacular! It is so similar to the surface of the moon and outer space that NASA tests its Mars vehicles there and some people think that the landing on the moon photos were actually just pictures taken on the Valley. Most of it is just volcanic rock amongst much weather erosion and hoards of minerals, primarily salt, with old mines scattered about. Perks of renting a bike and doing my own tour were feeling the freedom of biking in such bizarre landscapes, without a single soul around, so it really did feel like I was exploring and walking on the moon. Cons were leaving at high noon and biking through the driest desert in the world with the sun high in the sky and not a single ounce of shade. By the time I returned I felt like my lips were going to crack into pieces if I smiled and after downing a Gatorade I managed to pass out for 2 or 3 hours straight. Yikes!

Moon terrain.
So here I am in Arequipa, the second largest city (about 1 million people) and legal capital of Peru.  It is very nice and very colonial. Many of the buildings date back to the 16th century and it was often commended in its past for its loyalty and faithfulness to the Spanish Crown. Now it is a city full of a flair all its own, where the Arequipeños say they want to extricate themselves from Peru and become their very own statehood. Or so I've heard. It does feel a bit different. Volcanoes in the background, canyons in the surrounding area. And as a gentleman in my hostel put it when describing his fondness for this town, 'the streets are clean, there aren't homeless people helplessly scattered about, it's without the immense fog of Lima, people work, and the vibe just generally tends to be happy.' Lovely!

The beautiful homes of Arequipa.

I decided to skip the nearby Colca canyon, the 2nd deepest in the world, since it meant yet another day spent mainly in a car and my body just didn't want to be put through that! Especially because tonight I will take yet another overnight bus ride (hopefully my last) further along the coast to find myself in Ica, Peru, place of sand dunes, lagoons, and apparently laid back 'hippy' vibes. I hope to find a nice and relaxed place to practice my yoga, unwind, and just enjoy myself before I decide how to spend the last several days of my time here in Peru. I think I'm also more or less ready to just get the last of my long haul overnight bus travel under my belt. Can't believe I'm nearing the end! Expect another post or two about the other places I will visit, how in awe I am of the Andean women, and musings on this PERUsing adventure in general.

For all of you who have been missing my meditations, soon they will be in person once again! For any of you have who have any requests or topics to touch on for my next couple posts, by all means just let me know. I tend to write inspirations or proffer advice on what I am most feeling at the time, and after descending so much in altitude all I've been wanting to do lately is just walk around and get lots of sleep! Its like I'm drugged with all the oxygen now coursing through my veins. So if your being is calling out for less activity as well, embrace the time and space you need for allowing good rest and relaxation. Regardless just continue to Viva YOUR yoga (acting in whatever way brings you peace & true happiness) while I continue living out mine.

Plaza de Armas, the central plaza of Arequipa.
Thank you Daniela for your ever so wonderful and gracious hospitality throughout my time in Peru! From staying with your family in Lima to offering your parents' home here in Arequipa, I am forever grateful. Look forward to getting to know you better in the future. 
NAMASTE y'all!!!

Striking flowers found on the streets of Arequipa.



Thursday, February 21, 2013

Riding the highs of the Bolivian Altiplano


Perspective altering amongst the sacred geometry of the salt flats.
Wow! I'm on such a high! Returning from 3 days of pure beauty and adventure. Feeling so in my groove and the swing of things. My perspective has completely shifted (and very literally after the salt flats!), my Spanish is better than ever, I've shared light and positivity through what yoga is to me, I've learned so much of myself, and I've revived my mind, body, heart, and spirit. All in all, I'd say the missions of my trip and ventures cumulated on my epic journey through the Bolivian salt flats and altiplano over the last several days.

Landscape nearby to El Ojo del Inca.
Before I get into what my Uyuni, Southwest Bolivian experience was, I want to finish with the rest of my time in Potosí, where I left off. I mentioned going to some hot springs nearby, las Termas de Tarapaya. I wanted a relaxing time full of nature and the wonderful healing energies of some thermal waters. For all you Montanans, feel LUCKY because Montana has many of the best hot springs I've ever been to! But every place has its charm and I was immensely pleased to tirarme (throw myself) into the waters of El Ojo del Inca, another name for the Tarapaya Springs.

Soaking with the lovely Gabriela.

As expected, as soon as I began travelling solo I found myself making friends with other South American travellers, native Spanish speakers, and wound up being adopted into a group of 3 lovely Chileans (who were more like 3 beautiful sirens!). We journeyed together to El Ojo del Inca where Incan emperor Túpac Amaru went to revitalize and heal mind, body, and spirit. It's actually an inactive volcano that has water coming up through it, heated along the way. Up to 72 feet deep in the center! It was like a lovely hot springs lake surrounded by stunning, calming scenery and a very mellow and relaxed vibe. One of my new favorite places in South America.

Speaking of the best things to do in South America (in my opinion of course), now I'll go into my 3 day tour starting from Uyuni, Bolivia. I'm going to have more pictures on this blog than any other, because they seem to do more justice to the majesty of these lands than any words could do.

Salt Flat optical illusions, eating my Chilean friends!
I found myself travelling with yet another group of Chileans, this time a wonderful couple that I met in my hostel from Potosí. I heard they were going to Uyuni and we managed to share a cab to the bus station, a hostel in Uyuni, and even the same tour, all full of wonderful memories and exchanges. Uyuni is a less than spectacular town but now survives primarily off of the hoards of people that frequent it in order to visit the nearby Salt Flats (Las Salinas de Uyuni). Most every country has its own salt flats, but this one happens to be the largest in the world. Around 7,500 square miles to be exact! And about 25 to 30 feet deep in the center, all salt! Pretty hard to imagine. I have seen pictures of it since my time in Argentina but until you are there in person it is really just impossible to wrap your head around.

Salt Piles for sale!
The Salt Flats receive about 600 visitors a day, but with the enormity of it you can easily get away from all others if you ask your guide to go a bit further out, past the Salt Hotel (yes, made completely of salt! No longer a functioning hotel but a nice museum). Luckily for us our guide, Román, was the best guide we could've asked for! He took us way beyond where most go, with hardly another person or vehicle in sight. Made for a pretty epic lunch spot indeed. So it's currently wet season in the salt flats, which provides for an amazing mirror-like illusion. The worst of the wet seasons were over though, and due to this we were able to observe the workers from the nearby town, making enormous piles of salt to transport and sell. The salt is used for winter roads, cattle supplementation, as well as the salt hotel. In another section of the flats is a location that no jeeps and vehicles are allowed to go and here they take out salt for human consumption as well. I must say, beyond the stunning optical illusions, this place just blows your mind! It is a palpable living, breathing part of Earth. The salt and humidity from below are constantly emitted and refreshed, making for mile upon mile of sacred geometry hexagrams. As our guide said, the flats are actually breathing. I put my hand into a hole to extract a salt crystal and it felt like I was putting my hand into the mouth of Earth. So bizarre yet so beautiful!

In El Valle de las Rocas, snow capped volcano in the background.
The following three days were spent visiting abandoned train cemeteries and the spectacular scenery of the Bolivian altiplano (places so high, nothing grows there). We saw llama, alpaca, and vicuña. Llama are like cows in the United States, alpaca are a bit more rare and are mainly used for their wool, and vicuña are an elegant and intriguing creature that are protected by the state and remind me of antelope in their grace. I also learned that donkeys are actually called Toyotas Bolivianas... Our guide's sense of humor was priceless. One of my favorite moments was when he decided to eat a lollipop and said 'voy a endulcar a la vida.' I am going to sweeten up life! And that he did.

How many Bolivians to fix a Toyota?
All of these guides amaze me. Their lifestyle reminds me of the first time I went skydiving and couldn't believe the lives of the jumpers and the camera men. I was blown away that this was their life, that they jumped out of airplanes on a daily basis, providing people with the thrills of a lifetime, and found a way to live on it happily. It was a pinnacle moment for me and on my first adventure abroad and changed my life in many ways. Well I was 17 and in Switzerland then and I am 26 and in South America now, but I am equally stunned. Granted the guides of the Bolivian altiplano live long days and work hard, they provide people from far and wide with the purest of adventure and memories of a lifetime. It felt truly badass! And they are not only the guides but the drivers, the cooks, the mechanics, and the all around adventure providers. There are no holidays for them, they take no days off, they are in constant go mode and from what I gathered they do it with aplomb. When a jeep breaks down, which happens often enough in what are some of the harshest conditions in the world, they come together like brothers and make sure to take care of each other.

Our guide, Román, in front of altiplano high desert 'roads'.

Among backgrounds of snow capped volcanoes, we visited lagoon after breathtaking lagoon, where minerals change the color of the water and flamingos grace the surface. Flamingos have been one of my favorite animals for years (along with the quote 'I am the pink flamingo in the yard called life), and it was thrilling to see them here in the wild. There are 3 different species of flamingo in these parts- andino, chilense, and james. In winter they migrate to nearby Chile or Venezuela as the temperature can drop down to about -10, without windchill. Their young are not mature enough to fly and about 30% of the ones who are left behind will die. The flamingos seem to live peacefully here, a bright opposition to the surrounding harshness and contrasts. Predators vary from the fox, the Andean cat, and the rare puma. As I stood there shivering in the wind, watching their harmonious ways, I gained a whole new respect for flamingos and a bravery I never knew they had.

Would you expect to see this in the Bolivian Andes? I didn't!
Other attractions included volcanic rock structures blown into shape by the extremely high velocity winds. Mirrored lakes, mineral explosions, volcanoes everywhere you turn. The whole area actually is volcanic and was formed by volcanic eruptions from thousands of years ago, however only one volcano in the area is still active. The geysers were also mighty impressive and I was happy to learn that a Bolivian electric company has come into the National Park in an attempt to harness the enormous power of the thermal activity into providing electricity for the humble lodging and ranger stations within the area.

Volcanic rock carved entirely by high speed winds.
Harnessing geyser energy power.

 Altitudes ranged from 12,800 feet to 16,000 feet, with the geysers being at the highest point. I tried doing some alternate nostril breathwork on the second night, at about 14,500 ft, and let's just say holding your breath in, or out, at that altitude provides an entirely new challenge and awareness. Getting some practice in and coming back to my mat while travelling has been so lovely. I've also rekindled my love for my meditation practice and its never felt better, more rewarding, relaxing, and worthwhile every single day I and moment I decide to go inward and just CALM.

Doing the flamingo!

Headstands where the Chilean, Argentine, & Bolivian borders meet.
And speaking of that high i was talking about earlier, well a lot of that of course has to do with yoga. It feels so so good to be back to communicating fluidly in my favorite language, but it feels even better to share the ways of yoga, my favorite way of life. From expressing what yoga means to me to a Belgian clown in Potosí... to sharing insight, practices, and ways of life to the Chilean sirens... to showing Brazilians how to do a headstand... to breaking barriers, misconceptions and limitations to people of all walks of life and parts of the world... it feels like I am leaving little seeds of positivity (and crystals) every place I go. Explaining the roots, benefits, and varieties of a 5,000 year old healthcare system through every meaningful encounter I have... for that I am eternally grateful.

Love all of YOU, far and wide.


 We ended the tour with a soak in some wonderfully hot hot springs and a drop off at the Bolivian/Chilean border. I am currently in San Pedro de Atacama, the driest place in the world. A place that also has toilet seat covers and decent internet once again. Tomorrow I'll teach some yoga in the morning and in the afternoon I'll explore a valley that NASA has studied as it mimics the exact terrain of the planet Mars. From there I'll head north back to Peru, making my way up for my flight from Lima in about 10 days time. Only onwards and northwards from here on out!


Hot springs enjoyment.
I leave you with simply a suggestion to embrace whatever you are passionate about. Whether it be clipping your toenails, learning Mandarin, making someone's day, or radically changing your life to do whatever it is you've always dreamed of doing, JUST DO IT ALREADY! Because you deserve it, no matter how big or small. This life is a precious one, take the reins, make the most of it, and enjoy the ride you've created for yourself.
Mirrored spectacles, I will miss Bolivia dearly!
··If any of you are ever considering doing a trip like this for yourself, check out my boyfriend Alex's site Your Expedition South. He's done it twice, on a motorcycle, and is the reason I created this Bolivian adventure for myself, absolutely enabling me to make the most of it. In fact, I did it by far cheaper than anyone else I talked to, knew the best of what there was to do, and ended up being the 'guide' for most anyone I traveled with during my time in Bolivia. Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU Alex!!! Your vision is stupendous.··

Saturday, February 16, 2013

The Yin & Yang of Traveling, La Paz & Potosí


Views of stunning La Paz, Bolivia.

Sometimes travelling makes me feel like I'm bipolar.  Certain days and moments are the happiest, most sensational, ecstatic moments of my life. Others (whether a day later or a minute later) are so isolating and alone, with a longing for the comforts of home and a feeling of destitution. It's like everything you can experience at home and on a regular basis, times a million! The ups and downs. Maybe that's why I like travelling and practicing yoga so much. They both confront you with your inner identity and allow you to shed layer upon layer that you didn't even know were there. I personally thrive and revel in these inner moments of introspection, as challenging as they can be. The path to knowing yourSELF is a constant one and in my opinion the most fascinating and worthwhile journey of all. And luckily for me yoga and travel (and horses for that matter) have enabled me to embrace the importance of the self within, that stillness at the center of the storm that doesn't identify with whatever it is you're going through or experiencing. It just accepts it, and appreciates it. Thank goodness for that!

Vibrant La Paz city streets.
My time in La Paz, the capital of Bolivia, was a part of that swing. It felt really good to be traveling solo again simply for the tried and true adventure of it. And of course you immediately make 'friends' as a backpacker in a big hostel. But I found most of what there was to do was void and lacking... walk around city streets, go to the scrambling yet interesting city markets. Then what? Pay a ridiculous amount of US dollars to get an adrenaline rush mountain biking down the most dangerous road in the world? Something inside me told me not to, even though the views and drop offs are indeed pretty spectacular and something to write home about. Whether it was the reluctance to pay an entire week's worth of living expenses in one day's outing, a shortage of time, or to avoid what felt like a frat boy travel adventure, I decided not to. When you're traveling often the biggest dilemma is simply the sheer vastness of all your choices! And in South America there are plenty of them! So I find it best just to follow my heart and intuition and be happy and accepting of where it takes me, knowing it will be the right path.

A view of La Paz from nearby El Alto.
I've already mentioned the energy drain that big cities are for me (what can I say I'm a horse and mountains kinda girl) so I won't go much into it here. But I will say that La Paz does have a truly lovely and unique energy about it and many of the people I met there really enjoy it and come back to it often throughout their travels. And as a backpacker, the hostel you stay in makes all the difference. Mine had super comfortable beds and a pancake breakfast, but a pretty young crowd that goes out often and parties hard, coming home at 5 or later in the morning and often starting for their bike tours still quite borracho. Five years ago I'm sure I would've loved it! But now I'll just say that travelling ear plugs are one of the most crucial part of my adventuring and here they served me very well. After two nights I was thoroughly ready to get back into nature, smaller towns, and packed my bags for my 11 hour bus ride south to Potosí.


Teenage revelry.
And here I am, in love with it already! Enter yet again the conflicting nature I so often feel. My rainy day in La Paz yesterday, feeling isolated and disconnected in the big city, then a dark and not so memorable overnight bus trip.. followed by a gorgeous and sunny day in one of my new favorite small cities! Amazing how the weather can affect your mood. Or, as I often ask myself, is it the other way around? This colonial high altitude town (one of the highest in the world at around 12,500') is a joy to walk around, especially in the quietness before everything starts to get going around 10:30 or 11 in the morning. A parade of middle and high schoolers tromped by the main square with their dancing, their music, their sheer joyousness and loud celebration, filling me with so much happiness that my heart swelled and tears of elation came to my eyes. A stark contrast from what was only yesterday but feels like eons ago.

Early a.m. colonial streets.
I walk around smiling, sitting in the sun at a nice cafe as I write this, and yes I decide, I like this city very much. There's greenery, nature all around, everyone seems so lighthearted and happy. There's more of a sense of enjoyment and relaxation than I've felt in quite some time. I try not to be biased or ignorant, though, as I know the history here is a complex one. Potosí is an active mining town which at one point, around the 15th century, was at the heart of the South American continent. Much of the town still worships the devil, El Tío, as so many of its residents spend time underneath the earth, and conditions are still very harsh and demanding.

Tranquil Hostel in Potosí.
To put it into perspective, the silver that was mined out of this town, their Cerro Rico, inspired the industrialization of Europe and provided more capital wealth than the European Continent had ever seen. It 'bank-rolled the entire economy of Spain for over 250 years.' But at what cost? Millions of slaves of not only indigenous tribes but also those brought over from Africa, working in some of the most inhumane conditions imaginable. It is still a working mine with the workers now fortunately having control over their working environment, yet the average life expectancy of the workers is only about 10 years. Nowadays you can take tours of the mine, but in no way shape or form do I fancy going to gawk at the workers while they are trying to make an earnest living. It all feels way too much like 'white man' exploitation to me and I will from now on think twice about mindlessly buying silver.

Again with the back and forth nature about how I feel about things (I praise in the comforts of Potosí, then stand aghast at the reality of it). Maybe it's the yogi in me that increasingly appreciates the yin and yang of life, the dark and the light, the necessity of opposites in order to have balance. The contrasts just seem to pop out at me more and more as I journey onward, and I can appreciate that.

Planting trees in the main square of Potosí.
So here's a meditation for all of us to appreciate our own imbalances and contrasts coming into balance...

Close your eyes, breathe deeply into your belly, ribs, and chest.
Relax your eyes, relax your jaw, relax your forehead, your shoulders, your being.
Relax, relax, relax.
Bring to mind a place where you feel safe, supported, comfortable, and at ease.
Use all your senses.
Now simply allow one feeling or emotion that has been present as of late to surface.
Feel it, embrace it, don't identify with or judge it. Experience it.

Now, if you can, bring to mind its exact opposite using all your senses and your open being.
What does its opposite feel like and can you embrace it with all your being?
Now simply go back and forth between the original sensation and its opposite.
Back and forth until you find that perfect balance with in.

Feel better? This can be done at any time, with any overwhelming (or not) feelings, emotions, thoughts, beliefs, or attitudes. It really does help immensely, bringing us back into balance and awareness, to that center within. Try it often, or simply whenever you need it. Overpowering emotions can really eat away at the soul and doing this inward journey allows for finding the true meaning and harmonious balance within.

Thank you to all of you who are reading. Sharing here has been such a blessing and joyous experience and I hope you find some of what I write useful or just enjoyable. Personally, journaling has always been my best friend, and most especially while travelling or reflecting on my journeys in yoga. I have no doubt that it always will be, as who better to be there for myself then, well, my SELF? Make time for YOUR self whether it be simply appreciating a time out, journaling, or practicing a meditation exercise.

Overlooking the cerros (hills) of Potosí.
From here I have another day in Potosí to check out their beautiful natural hot springs and then I head to Uyuni and the Salt Flats, the pinnacle destination of my journey and what I know will be a phenomenally spiritual and soul quenching experience. I look forward to sharing it with you here!

NAMASTE y'all.

Thursday, February 14, 2013

Lago Titicaca & Isla del Sol


I have to say that my time spent on Lake Titicaca was some of the best I've ever spent. It was so rich with culture, with uniqueness, with absolute stunning beauty.  It is the largest lake in South America, found in the Andes between Peru and Bolivia (60% on the Peruvian side, 40% Bolivian). The translation is Titi which means puma and Cala which means gray, pronounced in Spanish as Lago Titicaca. Many consider this body of water the highest navigable lake in the world, with an altitude of about 12,500 ft.  It was created during the formation of the Andes, trapping water from the Pacific ocean, which is apparently how all lakes in the Andes were formed. Now all the salt has settled into the earth and it is a beautiful fresh water lake consisting of three different parts (the bahia, the big lake, and the small lake) and with Spanish, Aymara, and Qechua spoken on and around the lake.

Las Islas Flotantes outside Puno.

Our first encounter with Titicaca was upon arrival in Puno, Peru after a 6 hour bus ride from Cusco. We picked up another friend from the eco-village, Anjah, and got to Puno just in time to find a hostel before the major Carnaval celebrations started. Luckily they weren't until later in the weekend, so we still got to experience some of the camaraderie, parades, music, and festivities without having to pay ridiculously sky high prices and be amongst an obscene amount of drunken revelry (not that it's bad! it's just not what we were looking for).

An overview of the Floating Islands.
Our first day on the lake was heading to the Islas Flotantes (Floating Islands), about a 15 minute boat ride from the shores of Puno. I've heard many things about how touristy this has become and many people on the backpacker route now choose to skip it altogether.  But boy am I glad we went!  There is nothing else quite like it!  The islands are inhabited by the Uros tribes, which outlasted the Incans as well as Spanish invasion.  In fact I was told that they started living on these reed islands as a way to escape from invasion and devastation. Successful indeed. They use totora reeds to build their islands, construct their homes, and provide sustenance (tasted pretty good actually!). The reeds must be replenished often during the rainy season and tend to last longer in the dry, winter months.

Traditional weave work being sold.
The Uros tribe now speak Aymara and have about 2,000 inhabitants, living in a style mixed between their old ways and some new. They continue living by means of fishing, weaving, and now tourism, although our guide told us that outside of tourism, replenishing the reeds every 15 days or so is the only real work they have left to do. Some of the people on the islands did seem a bit deadpan, so run down by either their lifestyles or doing the same touristy charade everyday. But if you ask me, we shouldn't go into a place, make them change their lifestyle in order to accommodate foreigners, and then decide it's too 'touristy' to go. What a shame. So as I said, I was glad I went and supported them and got a glimpse into one of the most unique and diverse ways of living I've ever experienced.

Our Copacabana hostel.
After this we crossed the border into Bolivia and landed among the small town of Copacabana. As soon as we arrived, my relaxometer went up about ten fold- what a lovely beach town. Oh wait, lake town! It's easy to forget you're not by the ocean when you're alongside this paradise. The views, the laid back vibe, the water, the clean mountain air. We only spent a day here but made sure to eat some of the delicious local trout, check out the gorgeous church (built in 1,550 AD), unlike any I've ever seen, and also peruse the Sunday market.


La Basìlica de Nuestra Señora de Copacabana

Sunset from our hostel on Isla del Sol.
From there we took another 2 hour boat ride to Isla del Sol, one of the most magical, remarkable, transcendent, and beautiful places I've ever been to.  It was like a time lapse oasis where you lose all memory of where you are (wait, I'm on a lake? in the Andes? in the 21st century?) and just settle in to a way of living that has been around for over 15,000 years. It was known to the Incans as the birthplace of the Sun God and is also considered the sacral chakra point of the Earth. Most people take the boat over to the island for the day and do the 3 hour long trek from the north side of the island to the south. Not a bad day trip as there are spectacular views, decent hiking, and over 180 ruins on the island, most of which date back to the Incan period around the 15th century. We however made sure to stay for a while and really soak in the vibe of this place and went straight to Challapampa, which is much less developed and pretty rustic part of the island indeed.

Pig encounter on our way into town.
Picture cobblestone streets that turn into dirt walkways which transition into rocky paths, often with waterfalls and rogue pigs to cross along the way. Views of the Andes and the serene lake that take your breath away. People who look like they are from another lifetime, speaking a language that sounds so foreign and exotic, yet are still so warm and inviting and work to speak Spanish in order to communicate openly with you. They're native language is Aymara and many scholars believe this to be the oldest language in the world, even older than Sanskrit. It's mystical indeed. Everything about the island is, especially because there are no roads or cars so a large majority of the culture and ways of life remain intact.

The holy water spring.
The people of Isla del Sol (or islanders as we called them) survive mainly off of agriculture, fishing, and yes now also tourism, with about 800 families living on the island. Tourism only came to be about 10 to 15 years ago and the only tourists we encountered were other South Americans, primarily laid back Argentines for some reason, which of course brought me back and made me very happy. On our first full day we took in the landscapes, enjoyed petting the donkeys, drank from the holy water, which comes from a natural spring up in the hills, and meandered down to an isolated, highly energetic beach to spend the day. Good thing we did! There we found caves to meditate in and Malada, a beautiful spirit living there for 6 weeks, as well as Pablo, an Argentine artist who lives there most of the year.

Our beautiful beach paradise.

Our hostel decorated for Carnaval.
On this day it was their very own special Carnaval celebration, El Dìa de la Papa, a day solely for celebrating and commemorating the potato. Yes, the potato.  From the beach we had the privilege of watching the islanders go about their sacred festivities, blessing the potato, and asking the heavens to be good to them as they are just humble people here with their potato asking for rain not hail. The women were dressed in skirts so bright they looked like little gems walking around the fields, and the men went around putting up streamers in the field and playing their staccato flutes and pipes. It was truly magical.


These people are so humble, so in tune, they are an absolute part of their ecosystem in every sense of the word. From where we were on the beach you could just see and feel their actions functioning so harmoniously, like the interconnected nature of an ant tribe or a bee colony. While harvesting their potatoes, they worship and bless the sun, the sky, all parts of nature (and although they are technically also Christian, I never once saw a church). They practice crop rotation (other years there's onion, corn, and carrot as well), only fish in times of the year when the fish are big enough to produce, and make their homes out of adobe and materials found on the island, always working.

Pablo's home, Anjah drawing in front.
This way of life has survived for over 15,000 years, sustainably, happily, humbly. I will never forget this unique experience, a chance to truly take in and observe something that most humans in this world will never even fathom, care about, or have the chance to partake in. So as Pablo the artist put it, most people are in the cities celebrating and drinking the warm beer, while the people of Isla del Sol are truly commemorating, truly living. They are more connected and have more awareness in their festivities than any amount of mindless revelry could ever begin to attain. Pablo studies these people, is in love with them, is passionate about learning Aymara and making connections.  He told us that the reason they are never nude is because the potato flowers may be offended to see a body more beautiful than their own and it may also offend the celestial deities, who may then send hail. We were also informed that the large, heart wracking booms that are so often heard throughout the island are yet another tradition asking the thunder gods not to send hail, just rain. Sigh.

Dìa de la Papa celebrations.
I must say, the days I spent on Isla del Sol were some of the best and most remarkable days of my life. I will never forget the sound of the flute going through the fields, played by the elder who had a stroke but is now joyfully able to make music once more.  I will never forget El Dìa de la Papa, everything for the glorious and nourishing potato. Here, just as with the old men working the gardens in the eco-village, I also saw my grandfather, my beloved Grandpa Jack. A man who was one with his environment and the land. He embodied so much of the same hard-working, diligent, in tune, straightforward, humble, and happy nature that most of the traditional cultures I've encountered in my travels represent and I am happy to be reminded of him in these special places.

My time on the harmonious Isla del Sol has changed me for good. I found perspective, I fell in love with Bolivia and I fell in love with myself and the world all over again. As Anjah sat on the beach, tears streaming down her face, saying 'this is it, this is everything', I could only agree. I felt more at home than I have in a very long time. And I must admit that I am now happily a papa (potato) worshipper too.


I'm currently in Bolivia's capital city of La Paz, traveling solo once again (although backpackers never really seem to be alone, do they?). It's a wonderful city but I still have the glowy haze of the island surrounding me and I will leave soon to head back to nature, my yoga, and smaller cities of even higher altitudes (getting to around 13,000ft). I really have little to say regarding any yoga poses, meditations, mantras. All I have to say is make the time in your life to connect to the source, whatever that may be for you. Be inspired to turn off the TV, go a day without using electricity (or maybe do the best you can if you're in the middle of a Montana winter), read a book, work the land, enjoy the strength of your capable body, go out into nature and simply observe your surroundings.


Isla del Sol living.
Find something in your life to say a prayer for or show some true humble gratitude for. 
Do it often, and notice the innate enjoyment, modesty, and happiness that it is guaranteed to bring into your refreshed and blissful being.

NAMASTE